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Region

Isan (Northeast)

Thailand off the tourist trail — Khmer ruins, silk villages, fiery food and some of the friendliest people in the country.

Isan is a third of Thailand's land, a third of its people, and a tiny fraction of its foreign visitors. It sits on the Khorat Plateau, bounded by the Mekong and Laos to the north and east and Cambodia to the south, and it leans culturally closer to Laos than to Bangkok.

It was the northwestern frontier of the Khmer empire, which is why there are temples here contemporary with Angkor Wat — Phanom Rung above all — that you will often have entirely to yourself. It is also the source of som tam, larb and gai yang, which is to say most of the Thai food the rest of the world thinks of as Thai food.

Distances are large, English is scarce and public transport is thin. It is the region where a driver makes the biggest single difference to a trip, and the one that rewards the effort most.

Suits: Second-time visitors, food travellers, anyone tired of the tourist trail.

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