Named “Elephant Island” for its shape rather than its wildlife, Koh Chang is Thailand’s second-largest island — and one of its least developed, given the size.
Around 70% of it is protected national park: steep rainforest mountains running down a spine, waterfalls in the interior, and a string of beaches down the west coast. It’s five hours from Bangkok by road and ferry, which makes it the only genuinely good island you can reach from the capital without flying.
The beaches
They run down the west coast, north to south, and get progressively quieter.
White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Khao) — The main one. Widest choice of hotels and restaurants, the busiest, and a good beach.
Klong Prao — Longer, more spread out, and split by a river estuary. Good balance of space and facilities.
Kai Bae — Good value, a nice stretch of sand, and excellent sunsets with small islands on the horizon.
Lonely Beach (Hat Tha Nam) — The backpacker and social end. Livelier at night, cheaper, and with a notorious rip current at one section — heed the signs.
Bang Bao — Not a beach but a fishing village built on stilts out over the water, now lined with seafood restaurants and dive shops. This is where the boat trips leave from.
The east coast is almost undeveloped: mangroves, a few villages, and very little reason to go unless you want exactly that.
In the interior
Klong Plu waterfall — The island’s main fall, a 20-minute walk from the road to a swimmable pool. Park entry applies.
Than Mayom waterfall — On the east side, quieter, with several tiers and royal inscriptions carved into the rock by visiting kings.
Jungle trekking — Guided treks into the national park interior are available and genuinely worthwhile; the forest is dense and you shouldn’t attempt the longer routes alone.
Kayaking the mangroves at dawn is one of the nicer things to do here.
On the water
The archipelago south of Koh Chang has the clearest water in the eastern Gulf. Koh Wai, Koh Rang and Koh Kham are the usual snorkelling stops, ฿1,000–1,500 for a day trip from Bang Bao.
Diving is decent by Gulf standards, with the wreck of the HTMS Chang — a scuttled naval vessel — as the main draw.
Koh Mak and Koh Kood further south are quieter, flatter and beautiful, and easily reached from Koh Chang. Koh Kood in particular is what people imagine when they say “undeveloped Thai island”.
Practical notes
- The season is sharper here than elsewhere. From May to October a large proportion of businesses simply close. Check before booking a low-season trip.
- The island’s road is steep. Some of the hills between beaches are very steep indeed, and scooter accidents on them are common. If you’re not a confident rider, don’t learn here.
- Sandflies and mosquitoes are more of a factor than on the southern islands. Bring repellent.
- ATMs exist on the main beaches but bring cash for the smaller places.
Pair it with the mainland
Koh Chang works well as the end of an eastern road trip: Bangkok → Pattaya → Chanthaburi and Phlio waterfall → Trat → Koh Chang. Almost no foreign visitors do this route, and it’s one of the more rewarding weeks in the country.
Make it easy
We arrange the drive, the ferry timing and the island transfer as one seamless journey, plus snorkelling trips and waterfall days once you’re there.
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